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Cut strips of mesh and slightly bend the one edge on each piece. This will make for an easy pick up.
Note: Try cutting out shapes of all types. Hearts, stars, birds...
Apply gentle tension to ensure that your mesh is embedded into the hot bead skin.
I like to apply using force to shove the base glass into a spiral twist. This adds depth to the base bead, but you may find this undesirable.
If you wish to retain the base bead shape, heat less of the bead skin and apply the mesh very gently
Quickly tap down all raised mesh edges to secure to the base bead
Heat up a small gather on the end of a clear rod and get ready to swipe encase.
Let the molten clear set up for just a few quick seconds, then encase.
Applying white hot molten glass will cause the mesh to form ball patterns instead of retaining the crisp mesh look.
Apply with gentle pressure because you want a thin encasement layer.
Heat slowly and high up towards the flame tip to caress the bead into shape as shown.
So what happens if you don't heat slow and up high in the flame?
The mesh begins to form little tiny balls instead of keeping the mesh look.
Personally, I love this look as much as the standard mesh appearance.
It is important to me that individuals understand how to control your heat so that the look is controlled by YOUR actions and is not luck of the draw lampworking!
In this photo, you can see how it is still changing over from mesh to a ball pattern even when it is out of the flame.
This is due to a high level of heat saturation within the glass itself.
Now lets play with some layering and try this again.
This time we will practice one element of heat control to retain the mesh look.
Apply gentle heat to the bead surface and touch down with your mesh using a light touch as not to distort the bead this time around.
See those raised ends? Tap them down with your tweezers before encasing!
Heat the end of your clear rod and allow some of the heat to leave the glass.
Touch down and thin encase as described above.
Oh add another mesh scrap to your bead, live it up and explore the materials boundaries. It is just a demo right?
When my students enroll in the heat control coures, I remind them to stop playing it safe. Explore the boundries during your first attempt at new techniques, THEN fine tune your skills.
Tap edges down again...
and finish it off with the final encasing layer.
Apply gentle heat in the upper area of your flame.
Allow the bead to cool back down slightly. why?
Well, we need to heat the bead into a pleasing round, however remember too much heat built up in the core will cause all mesh to ball up.... So put your patience to work and take your time.
In addition, depending upon your base color, it could cause discoloration and yellowing. Sometimes I will overheat to bring out this look intentionally...
Apply gentle heat one more time and round the bead out.
Once a beadmaker moves beyond mastering the basics, a whole new world of inclusion material is ready and waiting to be explored. Lets discuss just one option, Silver Mesh inclusions.
This photo shows you what NOT to attempt!
The bead surface must be semi molten or the mesh will not stick. In addition, do not hold the mesh too close to the flame. If it comes in contact with the flame you will destroy the pattern and begin to fume silver on the bead surface.
Heat the surface just enough to make the top skin molten and get your mesh ready for placement.
Touch down on the molten surface AFTER allowing it to cool down until a little of the glow has left the bead. If you touch down against a white hot molten surface, the mesh will begin to melt and create a ball pattern instead of keeping the mesh look.
I love the layered look . Our bead combines the balled up look as well as the traditional mesh look.
Now it is ready for 2 hours of my famous flower construction!
So, you're still here?
Go torch something already!!!!
To inquire on current lampwork course offerings or take the studio tour click the pink button below
